Saturday, September 6, 2008

Eureka

It finally happened. I get it. I understand why people quit their jobs over this whole thing. Scott and I woke up for our usual sunrise session, and a slow walk down the beach revealed the kind of waves I had started to think were made-up stories generated to get me into the watery mosh pit for the enjoyment of the peanut gallery on the porch. Kind, friendly, and glassy with crumbly whitewater breaks. I caught some waves. I actually stood up on couple. I think what really did it for me was the fact that every surfing member of the house was out that morning, also having a funhog day, yelling every time somebody got up and generally having a purely stoked romp in the waves. It's one thing to have a really good session and enjoy some surfing progress, but when I'm in the midst of a bunch of my friends on a morning like that, the joy is amplified and living feels so good it hurts.
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